![]() ![]() Dudhwa has one pucca road running through it and various kuccha but motorable forks that lead deeper into the jungle. Pavankali was the result of that undisguised blessing called the Tiger Census. It can make the focusing of binoculars on an eagle hugely exciting, and the discovery that the logs in the Suheli river are well-camouflaged crocodiles, a matter of immense joy. The moment of emergence from the shadowy trees when a creature is just a creature and not “cheetal” or “tiger” – potentially carnivorous, hoof-footed, antlered, slow-moving… the recognition that there is not the slightest barrier to physical contact between the two of you the context of sensuous life that the forest produces – sound, smell, chill, absence of familiar things – this is what they all add up to make – a forever-remembered, missing heartbeat. Available all over the country, seen in several urban district parks on morning walks and caged in many self respecting resort hotels in UP. I was kicking a blameless pebble, standing on the road at the periphery of the forest, when a couple of cheetal emerged. ![]() I remember ambling disconsolately away from the forest office on my first day, having been told, no madam, you cannot drive into the forest throughout your visit because there is a tiger census on and the park is closed. The fact is that the forest manages to lend an electrical charge to the sighting of a caterpillar. ![]()
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